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This year, thirteen perfumers worked at the House of Genesis on the theme “An American in Paris”. Support conducive to creative freedom and praise of the so-called “captive” molecules, developed exclusively by the company.
It is somewhat like a leisure, recreation of perfumers from the House of Genesis IFF (International Flavors & Fragrances). Launched in 2009, Speed Smelling is about giving creators complete freedom every year. An exercise that goes against the “summaries” and constraints (aesthetic, economic, etc.) that govern their daily lives, by allowing them to create a fragrance that would not be marketed through traditional networks. Only a limited edition box is on sale in our online store that combines the ingredient fragrances for every antique, thirteen in issue this year. The goal is twofold: to highlight the ingenuity of perfumers and to include as much as possible in the formulas of the so-called “captive” molecules, that is, the molecules developed exclusively by IFF. However, the scope for creativity is limited: In a nod to the house’s transatlantic roots, this year’s imposed frame was “An American in Paris,” and each designer had two months to make his or her version. On June 21, in-house perfumers were able to present fragrances inspired by this theme to the media and defend their fragrant choices during a seven-minute face-to-face meeting with every journalist present. Hence the name Speed Smelling in reference to Sessions speed datingThese interviews between bachelors are punctuated by tight timing…
Heartbeat, love at first sight? Here are our impressions of the classic 2022 fragrance, with the perfumers presented in alphabetical order.
Celine Barrell Aim to imagine the stars “Perfume white as the moon and round as a planet”. In 2002, IFF and NASA studied the effects of weightlessness on the scent of many roses aboard the space shuttle Discovery. the living (1) Space Rose, reminiscent of this partnership, forms the heart of the fragrance. Around it pulls a fresh new basketball living with synthetic accents and a base that blends an overdose of LMR ambrette absolute, captive IFF musk (Edenolide and Sinfonium) and New Caledonia sandalwood essence. Soft and coated.
Nicholas Beaulieu Comparing the most prestigious American universities that make up the Ivy League (ivy Translated into French as “ivy”) and our European oak groves. claimed salute to “American Green Chypre, Symbols of the Perfume Industry in the Seventies” Translated by The duality of pure and dark green. In the foreground, Vertonic (captive IFF) fuses. LMR Moroccan Lens Extract brings a smoother green texture, and more “vine”. A hint of liveliness follows with narcissus absolute Conscious LMR (cultivated in Lozère) before the Italian broom warms up all the aromatic notes. A timeless fragrance.
Caroline Dumore He wants to reconcile two visions ” clean “ : American “Watermelon and cucumber sprinkle pattern” and the French “More heliotrope and vanilla”. Aldehydes and gourmands in good intelligence? Deal. Captive opaline drives notes of citrus, LMR polygonum extract and CO2 pink pepper2 calm the mind ” Laundry “. Finally, finally, the reassuring goodness of Tunisia LMR neroli and a touch of marshmallow from Iris Ultimate LMR finally draw the lid off this deeply comforting scent.
Ann Flippo Surf on a very delicate green and pink wave. One started in 1966 by Joséphine Catapano, who works for the IFF and is considered the first American perfumer, with her masterpiece Fiji, composed by Guy Laroche. The green log – very broad, alternately spicy, fresh and juicy – unfolds through Tunisian rosemary extract, LMR France sage extract or Egyptian geranium extract. With a delicate and impressive balance, the luminous breath gradually radiates the result with floral (LMR ylang essence), fruits (coconut accord) and spices (vanilla bean extract CO.2).
Paul Guerlain Meet at Saint-Germain des Prés, to share a moment with IFF perfumer Sophia Grojsman. This emphatic bow from a young perfumer to a legend that both inspires and impresses calls for three key ingredients: isobutyl quinoline (leather notes), Aldehyde C-14 (lactone with peach) and iris Absolute Ultimate MRL. Arabica absolute coffee extracted ko2very subtle, complements the setting of a Parisian café”Attar explains. An homage to femininity, velvety, round and deep.
Nelly Hashem Ruiz His watch is 78 years old. Here we are in 1944, the nostrils of Coca-Cola and the blond tobacco of American soldiers’ cigarettes. The soda accord sparkles, driven by lime extract, LMR fresh ginger extract and LMR cinnamon bark essential essence. The herbal blond tobacco (made up of aromatic camouflage core) that shines through this melee brings out LMR eternity by amplifying the pectorals (AmberXtreme overdose). A beautiful and effective interpretation of the very classic tobacco note.
Jean-Christophe Herault Combines two opposites: the raw minerals emerging from the great American expanses (“Flint Grooves and Flint for Conquer Firearms Side”) on the one hand and … the French allure of iris powder. Fire ignites with the sparkling scent of pyromist, an IFF captive that works in tandem with pink pepper extract CO2 MRL. The bodily concrete of LMR iris makes its way there, accompanied by smoky notes of LMR Indonesian patchouli and LMR For Life Haitian vetiver. Like the echo of a gunshot between two rocks, the whole sound reverberates against the musky background of Sinfonide.
Juliette Karagiozoglu settle his account “For two national insignia that were considered vulgar in France or the United States: Coca-Cola and Opium by Yves Saint Laurent”. The two are connected with cinnamon and vanilla. The essence of LMR Heart of Lime sparkles like a first sip of Coca-Cola, refreshed with the captivating green of IFF’s, Aquaflora. Saffiano Leather (IFF captive) enhances sensation with LMR Cinnamon Bark Essential Extract and Vanilla Bean Extract CO.2 LMR (gourmet) then LMR modified oak wood essence (with syrup face). Cheeky but very relevant to the topic (moreover, 100% in tune with the imposed theme). A blow to the heart.
dolphin lipo Captures the scent of a very cinematic shot: An American has just arrived in Paris. Upon arriving at his hotel, he puts on a polo shirt that smells of laundry and goes down to the bakery to buy some bread.. The role of the freshness of the detergent is jointly ensured by the captive Vertonic and the accord of watery apple with aldehydes reminiscent of soap. In superposition, the baguette accord permanently invades the space with large reinforcements of pyrazine and Ambertonic and AmberXtreme POWs. But the effect, artistically exciting and screaming for truth, can be difficult to bear over time in relation to the dose of pyrazine.
Mib McCortin, nostalgia for 1970s American pop culture, steals one of Andy Warhol’s famous paintings for a can of Campbell’s soup—in this case cream of mushroom soup. Objective: To fit the artist’s approach by breaking the outlines (here the sense of smell) between everyday life and artistic creativity. This gourmet mushroom unfolds at the heart of a chypre accord that combines Tunisian rosemary and vetiver from Java LMR. Heart Patchouli N° 4 LMR provides a hydrated botanical face, while Vanilla Extract CO22 LMR and CO . mined oak2 LMR gives the fragrance a greedy weakness. An oddly addictive and bewildering experience.
Domitil Michelon Bertier He calls a botanical file inspired by the rediscovery of the IFF captive from 1949, Verdima. This tomato leaf-evoking molecule is supported here by the eucalyptus interface of the wormwood core N°2 LMR, with the soft combustion of carbon dioxide extracted from Timur pepper.2 LMR, the green, and the zealous elegance of the ultimate conscious LMR Narcissus. Very complex and oscillating between botanicals, fruits and musk, this composition is enveloped in a veil of mystery through cashmeran and amber.
Julian Rasquinet It holds the fruit record in its American version. “I chose the mirabelle plum because of its sweet tone and notes close to watermelon. I wanted it to contain it in a soft fragrance for the skin”, summarizes the perfumer. The edifice is dominated by a Mirabell accord of lactone-coated plum and Tunisian LMR neroli. The refreshing, powdery and iridescent effect is provided by Sinfonide. Very readable fruit, solar and retrograde, like childhood memories.
Dominic Ropion Make a note: Green notes fascinate perfumers on both sides of the Atlantic. “Instead of acetal and galbanum in France and Tribal, IFF captive from the 1950s, to the United States”. The perfumer combined classic green (Galbanum Afghanistan LMR essence) and fruity (berry and lychee, but also citrus) with the more modern vibes of AmberXtreme and Cashmeran. The floral face that LMR sambac jasmine absolute spreads permeates all “With a touch of French elegance”. An alluring game of remnants between two continents, past and present.
Series in just over an hour and a half of thirteen fragrance discoveries while listening to the creators describe their intentions, which is no small feat. Exercise almost makes you feel dizzy. It turns out that it is quite fun when one rediscovers compositions after the fact, peacefully, by re-reading their notes. With a few rare exceptions, first impressions are confirmed, even after several weeks. And we’re waiting to see which perfumes, perhaps reformulated, could hit the perfumery shelves in the coming months.
(1) This process devised by the IFF consists in in situ odor capture, according to the principle of a digital image, by decoding its components in order to reconstitute them artificially.
IFF “American in Paris” Express Scent Box, 10 x 11 ml, 150 € with brochure
Limited edition of 50 copies, available in pre-sale shop.bynez.com
Photos: © IFF